Two is not always better than one, and in the case of skin care treatments, there are a whole lot of exceptions. “In general, it’s a good idea to ask your aesthetician about skin care treatments that can be performed together during the same appointment,” says Omaha, NE, dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD. “While there are many skin care treatments that can work together to enhance your overall results, others can do more harm than good. If you’re planning to have a spa or in-office skin care treatment done, make sure you give your aesthetician a complete list of the skin care products you are using, as well as any medications you’re currently taking. Certain skin care treatments may have contraindications with your current skin care regimen or medications.”
Retinol + a Ton of Skin Care Treatments
It may be the gold standard, but retinol is one ingredient you have to be mindful of when pairing. “One example of an ingredient you should be aware of is retinol and/or Retin-A [tretinoin],” Dr. Schlessinger says. “If you’re planning a skin care treatment, we usually recommend that you stop using retinol for a few days. Retinol encourages cell turnover and this can make skin too sensitive for things like laser treatments, waxing and facials. The same goes for prescription tretinoin, as well.” Greenwich, CT, dermatologist Kim Nichols, MD, says she advises any of her patients getting a chemical peel or a laser to stop using retinol a few days prior to the treatment.
AHAs + Retinol
Norwalk, CT, dermatologist Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, stresses these ingredients are great when they hit your skin solo, but a definite no-no when applied together. “A mixture of retinoids/retinols with alphahydroxy acids, like glycol, can lead to extreme irritation and redness.”
Salicylic Acid + Retinol
Not to rag on retinol, but, while Dr. Nichols says this one isn’t necessarily dangerous, she doesn’t recommend using this anti-aging staple at the same time as salicylic acid. “Applying both of these ingredients at during the same skin care treatment may results in irritated or overly dry skin.”
Benzoyl Peroxide + Retinol
Seriously, we are really sorry retinol. “Topical retinoids such as tretinoin cream and topical benzoyl peroxide will deactivate each other,” says Dr. Mraz Robinson. “You can mix other forms of topical retinoids such as adapalene [now OTC] with benzoyl peroxide, but this can increase the risk for irritation and inability to tolerate the topicals.”
Vitamin C + Various Ingredients
In addition to the AHAs and salicylic acid, Dr. Mraz Robinson says stay away from applying retinol and topical vitamin C during the same skin care treatment, as the combination will break down the topical retinoids and decrease their effectiveness. “Also, the combination can be extremely irritating.”
Prescriptions + Various Skin Care Treatments
“Some prescriptions, like Accutane, cannot be combined with certain skin care products and treatments. Be sure to speak with your dermatologist and pharmacist about these prescriptions,” says Dr. Nichols.
Aczone + Benzoyl Peroxide
Sounds simple enough, but Dr. Mraz Robinson says that a mix of topical Aczone 7.5% (aka topical Dapsone acne medication) and benzoyl peroxide can actually temporarily stain your skin orange.
Waxing + a Facial
This duo is not ingredient-based, but important all the same. Dr. Schlessinger says you should never schedule a wax on the same day as any other skin care treatment (unless of course, if each skin care treatment targeted a different area, such as a facial and a body wax). “Waxing exposes a fresh layer of skin, leaving the complexion too sensitive for things like facials and laser treatments. Many facials, for example, involve deep exfoliation that can irritate freshly waxed skin.”